- What oil should I use and what about the zinc reduction in modern motor oils?
- If engine is clean on the inside it is highly recommended to use a multi-grade motor oil such as 10w30 or 5w30. Yes, we all have learned that the modern motor has greatly reduced zinc anti-wear additive. This anti-wear additive was required when the automotive industry switched from steel cam shafts to cast iron camshafts. The Model "T" "A" and early "V8" Fords had steel camshafts and this problem of premature camshaft lobe wear has not happened. We also have lower valve spring tensions and lower RPM's that prevent this wear from happening. Later V8 fords had a cast iron camshaft, so a different oil or zinc additive should be used.
- Are our engines rebuilt for no lead gas?
- Yes, all of our engines have SS straight stem valves with one piece valve guides. We install nickel chrome hard valve seats in all of our engines. This makes the engine compatible for no lead gas by industry standards. Note that all the scare from no lead gas did not happen and there is no reason to disassemble a good running engine to make these modifications. Nor is it necessary to use an additive to prevent this problem that won't happen.
- Do our engines have a contact seal or modern seal?
- No, our engines use the same deflector and slinger system as the original with no rear main leaks. Our tolerances are right on using only larger oil pipes on the rear main cap. Note that we seal the cap to the block and we use sealer on the rear main fasteners. If you have a rear main leak, visit our Rear Main Leak page.
- I have an engine that I think was done by Antique Engine Rebuilding, is that possible?
- The best way to tell is for you to check the lower valve cover gasket rail towards the front of the engine. There you will find that the engine has been stamped AER followed by a symbol and a four digit number.
